Understanding the Different Types of Climbing Holds
For newcomers to rock climbing, the terminology can often be overwhelming. The jargon, that climbers use with ease can leave you feeling confused and disconnected, especially when you're still learning the ropes. One of the primary areas where this vocabulary is most prominent is when climbers talk about the various types of climbing holds. These holds are essential for completing any climb, and learning the names and functions of each one will not only help you understand the language of the sport but also improve your climbing technique.
As climbers exchange beta—referring to the sequence of moves they use to ascend—they often mention specific holds and techniques. Although there’s a lot of specialized terminology to grasp, understanding the basic types of holds will clear up a lot of confusion and help you feel more confident at the climbing wall. This guide will break down the most common types of climbing holds into three categories: The Basic 5, The Fancy 5, and The Comp 5. By the end, you’ll be familiar with the essential climbing holds and their unique characteristics, giving you the tools to approach any climb with confidence.
The Basic 5 Climbing Holds
These are the holds that every climber will encounter, and they form the foundation of your climbing technique. Mastering them is crucial to progressing in the sport.
Jug The jug is the quintessential beginner’s hold. It’s large and easy to grip with your entire hand, much like the handle of a jug. Because of its size and ease of use, it’s one of the least strenuous holds. While jugs put minimal strain on your fingers, they do still engage your forearms, especially on longer routes. They are often placed strategically in more challenging climbs to provide a brief rest.
Crimp Crimps are small, narrow edges that require you to bend your fingers in a tight, controlled manner. Depending on the size and depth of the crimp, you may only be able to fit a portion of your finger pad (anywhere from half a pad to two full pads). Crimps require considerable finger strength and should be approached with care, especially when working with very small holds. They can be tough on your tendons and joints, so building strength in your fingers is essential.
Pinch As the name suggests, pinch holds require you to use your thumb and fingers to squeeze and hold the edge of the hold. These are typically blocky or semi-rectangular in shape. You’ll need to apply significant force to clamp down on the hold, and while it may seem simple, maintaining a strong pinch can be surprisingly difficult. Pinches test both finger strength and hand dexterity, so they’re a great exercise for building grip strength.
Sloper Slopers are holds that have a rounded or sloped surface, making them difficult to grip using a closed fist. Instead, you must keep an open-hand position to maintain your balance. While slopers often look large and inviting, they can be much trickier than they appear. They rely on your ability to use body positioning, friction, and a lot of core strength to stay in place. They're a true test of control and balance.
Pocket A pocket is a hold with a small, rounded opening that can fit just a few fingers—typically two or three. These holds come in a variety of shapes and sizes, but the key characteristic is that the opening limits the number of fingers you can use to grip. Pockets place a lot of strain on your tendons, so it’s important to approach them with caution, especially on long or difficult climbs. The smaller the pocket, the more challenging it becomes to maintain a secure grip.